While this is true for the whole archipelago, it is even more so for its most
natural, rugged and untouched island – Pico. The waters surrounding Pico are
known for being the most important whale sanctuary in the world. They shelter
up to 27 of the 60 species of cetaceans known to man – almost half, that is! You can see anything from the majestic blue whale (the largest animal
that has ever lived, bigger than any dinosaur), to the native sperm-whale, to the
endearing orca, the so-called panda of the seas. So no wonder Pico is considered one of the best whale-watching spots in the world. But it’s not “just” whales. During an outing you are sure to see
dolphins, lots of them, jumping and playing and just having fun. If you’re lucky
you may come accross some sea-turtles going about on their daily businesses,
some sea birds as well, of course and then, unexpectedly, (literally) out of the
blue, you’ll see the hunchback of a whale, floating in the surface, or maybe its
tail waving you goodbye. This is the moment you’ve been waiting for, this is
the reason why you came here, to experience first-hand all of these creatures'
grandeur.
Whales are cool, laid-back, nonchalant… they just seem to have it all under control. That’s probably why they tend to transmit such tranquillity and overall confidence. Dolphins, on the other hand, and joyous and a bit over the top, and
seem to have the ability to convey in one single jump all the world’s “joie de
vivre”. And together they provide the most uplifting experience. So, head to
your boat, camera in tow, bring your expectant smile and your spark in the eye,
because this is going to be a life-changing experience.

THE SPERM (?!)
On these waters, the sperm-whale is king. First, let’s just put it out in the open.
In Portuguese sperm-whales are called “cachalotes”, and I had no idea how the
ludicrous English name came about, so I had to investigate. Apparently early
whalers were confused by a whitish liquid these whales have in their heads, so
they ended up deciding that it could only be sperm, and hence the name –
which leaves us wondering what was going on in their heads. But no one can
really blame them. After all, sperm-whales (as we now have to call them) are
one of the most fascinating creatures in the world and, were their suspicions
true, it would only be just another of the sperm whale’s fascinating features.
Here come the real ones: first, one third of their body is constituted by their
massive head and their brain is the largest you can find on any animal that has
ever lived. They can dive up to 1000 meters (3280 feet) deep to eat one
of their favourite snacks – the abysmal giant squids – and that explains their
colossal 5 meter (16 feet) long denture – they’re actually the largest toothed
whales in the world – with probably some of the largest teeth – 18 cm (71
inches), weighing two pound each, to be exact.
Back to whales in general – they have a tendency to scorn the epithet that
Jean-Jacques Cousteau gave to the ocean. The “silent world” isn’t as silent
once a whale is near – or far, for that matter. Their heads work as sonars,
and they are specialists in echolocation, “singing” and “vocalizing” their way
through the waters in order to communicate and, especially, locate their prey - 
much like bats do in the air. This will make for those abnormally loud concerts
of squeaks and moans that New-Agers like to compile into albums that are
made to make you fall asleep – or fall dead annoyed, if you ask me. Above the
water level whales tend to be quite loud as well, while engaging in show-offish,
mind-boggling behaviours such as breaching and lob-tailing – for your viewing
pleasure.

FROM WHALING…
Many peoples around the world have a defining, sometimes spiritual
relationship with the sea and whales. In Pico, that relationship was harsh,
dangerous, and strenuous: it was called survival. It made warriors out of the
locals, it gave them the focus and drive that, to this day, is still the blueprint
of their character. It made them strong, fearless but respectful seamen.
Whale hunting was the basic form of economy in Pico for a long time.
Particularly from the dawn of the XIX century, when the industrial revolution was
at full swing, and the whale oil lubricated the wheels of the so called modern
world.
Sperm-whales were, then as now, the main focus. Not only were they the most
common whales to be sighted along the Azorean coastline, as they were also
thought of as the most fruitful species. The sperm-whale’s gigantic head is the
juiciest spring of the then much coveted whale oil, and its stomach produces one of the XIX century’s most sought-after luxury item – the ambergris, a waxy grey substance that has a marine, faecal odour when still fresh, but ages to have a sweet earthly aroma, which was very much appreciated by the XIX to XX century perfume industry.
Luckily, perfumes have since evolved, and whales are no longer in demand. Likewise, we have moved on to petroleum to feed our energy hunger.
This has left the Azores with a much debated riddle. What to do with all the
tradition, the culture, the knowledge, the instinct that linked whaling to Pico?
What would the people of Pico do to survive? What did all that experience
amount to? Who would they be from then on?

…TO WATCHING
1984 marked the year of a deep paradigm change: it was the death of whale
hunting and the birth of whale watching. The last whale was caught in 1987,
exactly the same year when a hippie-ish long-haired, barefooted 27 year-old
French man arrived in the Azores. That man was Serge Viallelle, a now mythic
figure in the island of Pico. He fell head-over-heels for the archipelago, and for
a beautiful Azorean, Alexandra – now his wife. And in the process, he got to know the people from Pico, particularly former whaler João Gonçalves, known as tio João Vigia ("uncle João the whale watcher"), who introduced him to whales and the then unheard of activity of simply watching them. Four years later, Espaço Talassa was born, the first whale-watching company in the Azores. And the seed of the proliferous whale-watching activity was sown. But what this
company does is actually much more than just watching whales go by. They
are the Observation and Study Base of Azores Cetaceans, meaning that, more
than a touristic activity, whale watching is, in the words of Serge Viallelle, an
opportunity to “actively take part  in the study and the protection of these last
leviathans and to contribute to the collection of data necessary for science”
– ingenious, to say the least, especially when there is also a protocol with the
local university.
23 years later it’s safe to say that the paradigm has changed indeed. Pico is
known as an example, a role-model in ecotourism, not just for the Azores but
for the world in general. And if the whales seem to be thankful, those watching
them are ever more so.